Digital Camera - Q & A

Questions like that one are best answered straight from the source, i.e. the USER MANUAL !

All the major manufacturers have websites with specifications for their products.
Pretty much all of them also let you download manuals for their stuff, just in case you lost your book.

It is worthwhile reading the manual, it will answer pretty much any question you have about the product, plus you'll even learn some more.

Are you really sure you want an ugly time stamp on your photos?

Do you realize that every camera records the EXIF info along with every photo? There are many ways of looking up that information, so you'll always know the date/time and many more things, anyway.

If you really need to show the date on the actual photo, you could always add it as text in post processing later, but it is harder to make that ugly stamp disappear.

Very much personal preference, you'll find competent models from Canon, Fuji and Samsung in the same price range.

One thing to decide, power system:
Li-Ion - generally means a slimmer, lighter camera, but if you need more than one battery of running time, then you are held to ransom unless a cheaper "clone" is available, and you also need an off-camera charger or multiple batteries are a pain.

AA batteries - these set a certain minimum thickness for the camera, but having sets of NiMH and a charger can give you as much running time as you want - use the precharged / low self discharge style of NiMH (eneloop or equivalent) if you want decent power from sets that have stood for some time without freshening the charge.

Go here: [URL Truncated] and choose Fireworks (open shutter), Christmas lights, choose ISO 100 and when you click on Calculate you'll get a list of f-stop/shutter speed combinations such as these:

ISO 100

f4 @ 2 sec.
f5.6 @ 4 sec.
f8 @ 8 sec.
f11 @ 15 sec.
f16 @ 30 sec.

Of course you aren't limited to ISO 100, its just the one I chose.

Needless to say you'll need a tripod and you'll want to be in Manual Mode with the AF turned OFF. Just focus your lens to infinity. Use the camera's self-timer to release the shutter.

That's a real nice camera. If you mean taking pictures like black and white or monotone or sepia, all you need to do is change the picture mode. Press Menu then Picture Mode.

See page 85 of your camera's manual. If you don't have or can't locate your manual, here's a link to an electronic copy in PDF format.

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I hope this helps.

Only one card slot. I am not sure I know of any compact cameras with more than that. Pro DSLRs have two slots. Here is the Kodak Spec...

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If it's in front of the screen but behind the glass cover over the screen you should probably just get the screen replaced. However that can, at times, cost more than a new camera - another option to consider.

The simple way to solve this problem is with a card reader. They're available where ever cameras are sold for little $$. No extra software, no cable and no hassle.

Yes, use a card reader and copy/paste from your card to your videos file. Most times you will have 2 folders, one for your videos and one for your pictures. So you will have to open the folders to find the video in the files.

You can use either a Secure Digital (SD), Secure Digital High-Capacity (SDHC), or MultiMediaCard (MMC) memory card with your Kodak EasyShare C613.


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Per the Kodak product website (linked below):
"16 MB internal memory available, SD/MMC card expansion slot, SDHC support"

Goes to show the incompetence of some people on Yahoo! Answers when they themselves-self-proclaimed "experts" and "pros" nonetheless-prematurely post smug advice without doing the proper research.

Don't bother with cables or special software!

The easiest and best method to download photos and video from your camera to your computer is via a little USB card reader (which are quite cheap these days).

Card readers also work for moving photos from the computer onto a card.

Plug the reader into a USB port and insert the memory card.
It will show up as a drive, and you can simply drag and drop the photos across to the folder of your choice.
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I have a Sony Cybershot that works AMAZING! It was a great price of $90-$140. I'm very picky to what I get and I tell you the money I bought it for was worth it. It has video sound. Different settings of light and shooting. Many options and easy to handle with no confusions. Here's a link of the camera I bought.

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There you go!

Hope I helped.

Just press the home button and go to playback. Hope this helps.

You can find Canon battery charger info here: [URL Truncated]

For batteries go here: [URL Truncated]

The SD1100 uses a NB-4L battery as you noted.

I'm not sure what you mean by "1200 800". If you are talking about the SD800, it uses a NB-5L battery which has very different dimensions (I have that camera myself). A charger for a SD800 would not work for a SD1100.

But a replacement charger for the SD1100 is only $14 + S&H from that store. It's probably worth getting a new one.

the online reviews at amazon show the kodak with 4 stars (79 reviews)
and the sony with 4 stars (28 reviews)

Both are pretty good ratings.
I would recommend going to amazon, open the reviews,
order the reviews by * of stars, and view the negative reviews for both cameras.

You'll quickly find the problems that users have with each of these cameras, and you can determine which camera is best for you based on that info.

theres have to be a place in ur computer were u can put it in :]

Fuju and Pentax and olympus both have a cheap waterproof camera that is around the $300 mark, but i am not sure how good they are, they look more like toys then cameras. Below
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To get a decent one you will need around $500(australian) to get a camera and a memory card for an olympus make a good quality waterproof as well as Panasonic panasonic that are both far better cameras. Always remember wye buying a camera to add the cost of a memory card to it because ,ost cameras do not come with one or come with a very small memory that only holds a few pictures but below are links to the olympus and Panasonic cameras. The Panasonic one is made in japan but the onympus one is waterproof to 10m where the olymus is only waterproof to 3
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Are you just playing games or are you really this paranoid? Youve asked many questions about hidden cameras over the past few hours.

If youre playing games stop.

If you really are paranoid get some professional counseling. From your other questions it seems you have a few issues to deal with.

This isnt the right category for your questions either. You arent asking about cameras. Your asking about psychological issues. Post in the right category.

From 2 to 40 depending upon what resolution you have your camera set.

If you can find a couple of old 256 mb cards, they will be a good basis for your shooting pleasure

Very difficult to tell anything about your problem because of your lack of information.

There could be other reasons, the card has failed is one of them.

The reason for failure could be you were using it as a storage device and cards aren't designed for this. My advice is after every shoot, upload to your system then format the card in the camera.
This will keep the card "healthy" and working correctly for some time.

If formatting doesn't do the trick for your card you should replace it.

According to Consumer Research.com they pick the canon power shot A1100is as the best buy for cheap camera, base on many review result.It is 12.1 mega pixel 4x and 2.5 inches screen.I brought one for my daughter and find it is very good compare to my 2-3 time expensive camera I have.I pay 129$ from amazon.

The Nikon D5000 is a quality camera. Here is dpreview.com take on it.
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Any lens for the Nikon D5000 will state if it has VR (Vibration Reduction). Some lenses do not, such as my Nikkor AF-S DX 35mm f/1.8G lens. VR has very little use on a 35mm lens. VR is very useful on zoom lenses. A lens does not have body stabilization, that doesn't make any sense.

The following is quoted from photo.net

"ED" is "extra-low dispersion" glass, a more expensive and higher quality glass that reduces chromatic aberration, in which light of different colors takes different paths through the lens, which would result in a dot of white light being fuzzed up by the time it reaches the film or sensor.

"IF" is internal focus, meaning that the lens does not change physical length as you focus on subjects that are closer or farther away.

"DX" are Nikon's lenses that only work on its small-sensor Digital SLR bodies, i.e., they don't cast a large enough image circle to be used on a film camera.

"FX" refers to the full frame sensor

"G" lenses are Nikon's newest lenses. They don't have an aperture ring, which is a shame because it means that you are forced to adjust the aperture with a command wheel on the camera. The G lenses don't work on older bodies.

AF-S is "silentwave motor". Old-style Nikon autofocus lenses did not have motors in the lens, but relied on a screwdriver blade in the camera body to turn the focus ring. An AF-S lens has a built-in ultrasonic motor, a technology copied from the Canon EOS system. When using an AF-S lens, the photographer can push the shutter release (or a button on the rear of the camera, if a custom function is set) and let the autofocus system do its best, then touch up the focus manually by twisting the lens ring. The AF-S lenses also focus faster and more quietly.

You may get a better answer in a Mac forum.

Its a Canon EOS 30D

See Kastriot Pashollis photo gear at the link below

Hes on Flickr too at the link below

Since I don't shoot Canon, I have no idea where to find lens reviews aside from dpreview.com which doesn't have a review for either of these lenses. Now I had read many times that the 55-200 was a better lens than the 75-300 but I haven't seen anything about the 55-250. I would guess they are close if not the same in IQ. As to low light capabilities, they are probably about the same and neither is going to do well in low-light, but no zoom in that price range will.

You could get a moderate zoom that would be good for low-light. Sigma has the 28-70 f/2.8 for $350 or the 18-50 f/2.8 for $420. There are also the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 for $450, and the 28-75 f/2.8 for about $460. And the Tokina 16-50 f/2.8 for $550. There are more but they only go up in price. The least you can expect to pay for a telephoto zoom that is good for low-light is about $700-800 for either the Tamron or Sigma 70-200 f2.8 and to buy the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 will cost about twice as much.

Of the two you listed, the 55-250 would be the better lens to complement the range of the 18-55mm kit lens. If you get the 75-300 you will have a gap between the two lenses. It may not seem like much now, but you would notice it after a while. Personally, I would choose the 55-250.

After that, you might think about getting the 50mm f/1.8 if you want to shoot people and low-light scenes. It only costs about $100.

invest in a USB Card Reader (available at walmart, bestbuy, amazon etc...) for about $15
Plug the card reader into your USB Port on your computer.
Remove memory card from your camera, and insert into the Card reader.
Follow instructions from the card reader to open your memory card.
Find pictures and copy them directly to your computer's hard drive.

This will eliminate any problems that you might have with plugging the camera directly into your computer, and using the camera specific software.

Before you spend a dime, check with your instructor and see if a DSLR is the right camera for starting you classes in photography. You may find you will need a good used 35 mm SLR with standard lens for the first few classes.

That said, any of those cameras will be a good entry level for a beginning digital photographer, however during your initial search, you may have noticed that Olympus and Panasonic DSLR's have much smaller sensors than the other brands, the so called 4/3rds DSLR's. They are a new format and have only a few lenses available for them and NO legacy lenses

Nikon, Canon and Pentax have been producing SLR's for decases and have many more lenses to choose from including legacy lenses (Nikon since 1959, Pentax K-mount since 1975 and Canon EF lenses since 1988)

Once you have narrowed the list down to three brands, go into a camera store and see which of the cameras fits your hands the best.

See which cameras menu is the easiest for you to use to make changes in ISO, camera resolution, white balance, mode switching and make EV changes (a camera with +5/-5 EV could be important to you).

Finally, take an SD card with you and test each camera at their highest and lowest ISO as well as when using the white balance that matches the light in the store as well as with it in the "auto white balance" mode.

Once you get home and are able to see the results on your large computer monitor, you will know which camera is better for your needs and expectations, not ours.

Take your time before you decide. Once you choose one, you will be married to that system for decades and the cost of changing to the other system will cost you nearly as much as a divorce. Be sure to take your time. If unsure, go back and do more tests until you are convinced which system is best for you

What camera? There is no point asking a question and leaving out the most important piece of information. I bought a $20 piece of junk made in China from eBay for one of my cameras and it's the best intervalometer I've ever seen! But it wouldn't fit your camera. But it might. You know where I'm coming from on this, don't you?

Under 30 $ you can not find a good digital camera. You may have to spend at least 200 $ . Otherwise you can try for a used one, but that also not sure.

I would recommend you Nikon D5000 12.3 MP DX Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR Lens
12.3-megapixel DX-format CMOS image sensor
D-Movie Mode with sound; record 720p HD movie clips
Vari-angle color 2.7-inch LCD monitor; one-button Live View
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Have you tried charging the battery overnight? If that doesn't work, bring it to an Authorized Sony Service Center. Don't forget to include the charger so they can also check if that works properly. Don't worry, Sony has the best aftersales service.

If it dropped and you pushed the lens back, it might be cheaper to just buy a new one. If it ran out of power with the lens out and you pushed it back, it would also be best to buy a new one.

If you pressed "format" your photos have been deleted. Thats what the format button does.

You can try data recovery software on your computer to recover them. I use Pandora Recovery and PC Inspector Smart Recovery. Both are free. Links are below.

I will recommend to go with Canon PowerShot A1100IS 12.1 MP Digital Camera with 4x Optical Image Stabilized Zoom and 2.5-inch LCD really good picture quality .
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you can find more options here
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If low light performance is important to you, then a lens that can only go to f/5.6 on the long end isn't a good solution for you.

Check out the Canon website, they have all their lenses listed. Sounds like you need an f/2.8 lens.

Your crop factor is 1.6, so simply multiply the focal length by that.

Well I know that you mexican, so I can talk to you in Spanish. La cámara Sony Alpha A330 es una excelente cámara, que creo que satisface a los más exigentes. La Canon Rebel XS no es mejor, una de las pocas ventajas que tiene es que son más fáciles de conseguir. Una Sony Alpha profesional es la Sony Alpha A900 que es una increíble Reflex de cuadro completo, por esa razón es sin duda profesional. Una cosa, se nota mucho que usas traductores web, ya que al escribir en el traductor deletreaste mal la palabra profesionales, parece que lo hace a propósito. Saludos.

How are you trying to import the pictures? Do you have your camera hooked up to the computer through a USB port or did you put your memory card directly into a port?

We can easily get into discussing studio strobes, light modifiers and all kinds of remote flashes but, chances are, you are thinking of a shoe-mount flash since that's the only time it matters if it is a dedicated or non-dedicated flash. I'll try to make this easy as I'm shooting the same camera.

If you spent $1700 on the Canon 7D plus several hundred to several thousand dollars on lenses to match its capabilities, it makes no sense to consider a non-dedicated flash. This is like using a cheap pair of pliers to tightern a nut when a few dollars more would give you a proper fitting wrench that is much more effective and easier to use. So, if you really want the best shoe-mount flash available for the 7D, look no further than Canon.

The Speedlite 580EX II is their top of the line speedlite. Your 7D can be used configure this flash directly from the in camera menus. One benefit of the 580EX II is that can act as a master flash to fire other speedlites wirelessly but, Canon finally caught up to Nikon and integrated this feature with the 7D's built-in flash. Before the 7D, with Canon you either had to buy a 550EX, 580EX, 580EX II or the ST-E2 flash transmitter to wirelessly fire other Canon speedlites.

If you don't need the power of the 580EX II or can't afford it's $450 asking price, the 430EX II offers most of the same functionality for about $170 less. You also give up the 580EX II's built-in wireless flash transmitter but, again this feature is now built into your 7D. Like the 580EX II, you can configure the custom features of this flash from the in camera menus. Most people don't need a flash any more powerful than the 430EX II but, there's nothing this flash can't do that the 580EX II doesn't do better.

For what it's worth, a close friend of mine found out this week that his 7D will fire his Sigma EF 530 DG Super dedicated flash. I mention this flash because it is compatible with Canon's TTL flash metering system. This flash is also notworthy because while it is not as powerful as the 580EX II, it is both cheaper and more powerful than the Canon 430EX II

Another top notch alternative to Canon speedlites is the Metz Mecablitz 58 AF-1 TTL flash. However, this flash is almost as expensive as Canon's own 580EX II. I haven't used this flash beyond a few test shots but the fact it costs as much or more than Comparable Canon flashes made it a hard sell for me.